Is it a sin that we love the subtle smokiness of the salmon that comes in a taco? That we also love the smoked beef tenderloin, perfectly rosy, that’s generously piled onto a brioche bun with cheese and caramelized onions? That we’re happy when the moist brisket, with its completely respectable mahogany smoke ring, gets piled onto a sandwich with a roasted poblano pepper and cheddar? At this new-school smoked-meat establishment, the star isn’t the three-meat plate. The modest Lake Highlands storefront has only five stools and a counter at the window, and it’s a bit fast-casual in decor. The earnest young business started by three former classmates is barely a year old. But when they say smoked meats, they’re serious. Not just ribs and brisket but duck breast, filet mignon, New York strip, rack of lamb. (You can also get the meats in Cryovac pouches to reheat at home.) The poblano-cheese sausage is a standout, with cheese that oozes in pockets. Smoked chicken salad, featuring big chunks of meat, pecans, grilled onions, and apples, comes topped with arugula on ciabatta. And neighbors, note that they’ll take your donated oak and pecan wood.

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